Sustain Stories: Erik Östling

How did @gubbstil begin?
 The first photo I took was about 12 or 13 years ago. An older man in a pink blazer, standing in the middle of the street, talking to someone. After that, I started taking more photos and posting them to my private account’s stories. Mostly as a way of clearing out my camera roll. It became a small archive.

Later, I downloaded TikTok to stay in touch with what was happening culturally. I started photographing people in the street, but I quickly realised that others were better at it. So I narrowed it down to older men. After about six months, one video received a lot of views. Someone suggested I start an Instagram account, so I uploaded everything there. Suddenly, I had 10,000 followers, and it kept growing quite quickly. I’ve simply continued doing the same thing.

Why older men?
 Photographing yourself every day in new outfits can feel a bit forced. Very conscious. Almost performative. Photographing older men is the opposite. They don’t dress for the camera. They don’t have accounts. They don’t expect to be photographed.

I only photograph what I genuinely find stylish - the break of a trouser, a silhouette, a worn jacket. Something personal.

There’s also a playfulness in how older men express themselves through clothing, even late in life. It has given me a sense of calm about ageing. Personality remains, even if the body changes.

What is it that they have?
 At first, I thought it was about their clothes being slightly larger. But really, it’s that they bought quality garments many years ago, and still wear them. The fabrics drape beautifully. The trousers are wider, creating a proper break over the shoe. It’s a contrast to the tight silhouettes we’ve seen for years. It feels authentic.

Do you remember a particular encounter?
 Yes, there’s a man on Östermalm I speak to from time to time. He's got an exceptional interest in clothing. He once told me American tourists often stopped him to compliment his style. When I said I lived in Södermalm, he replied, “I tend to stay on Östermalm. Going to Södermalm is like travelling to another country.” I found that very funny.

Most men with good style actually enjoy talking about clothes. It’s not a coincidence that they look the way they do.

Has your own style changed over time?
 I’m incredibly inconsistent. I want a new style almost every day. I can become obsessed with something I’ve seen on the street and start searching for similar pieces. Now that I’m older, I sometimes have the opportunity to invest in a tailored suit, and I know that it will last. But I change my mind often.

What do you look for when shopping second-hand?
 Material first. With blazers, I always check the shoulders. If they sit well, the rest can usually be adjusted. I study the details and the stitching.

Trousers are the easiest. You can often buy them a few sizes too large and have them tailored. Coats, I almost always buy if the shoulders fit. Sleeves can be shortened. Raglan coats are especially good.

Why almost exclusively second-hand?
 There’s definitely an element of treasure hunting. But more than that, it’s probably a desire to be different - to have something no one else has. The fabric has worn in, developed patina. It’s unique.

I rarely buy online. Instead, I walk through shops in Stockholm or wherever I’m travelling. My style is shaped by what I happen to find.

Sometimes that’s frustrating. I may never find the perfect camel hair coat. But that’s also part of the charm.

And if I find a business card inside a blazer, I’ll happily look the person up and try to get in touch. I like the idea that the garment has had a life before me.