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Back in 1994, British rock band Suede was singing about ‘The beautiful ones’. Here at Oscar Jacobson, some 23 years on, we think the song title and the band name are very closely linked. Because this spring, the beautiful ones are dressed in suede.
So what is suede? In Swedish we’re more used to it being called mocka – named after the city of Mocha in Yemen and sharing its name with the hot chocolate/coffee drink. There is actually a Swedish link, as the French (and ultimately the English) word is derived from the term gants du Suède – gloves from Sweden, harking back to a time when France imported special suede gloves from Sweden.
There’s something symbolic about the fact that suede is the part of an animal’s skin that lies against the bone shaft and is the actual flesh side of the leather. A kind of raw beauty. At least that’s the case for Swedish suede. French suede is made by buffing the side of the skin that is covered with fur, the grain, to produce a consistently velvety nap.
Suede is a prominent feature of Oscar Jacobson’s spring collection this year – for a number of reasons. Our design team has focused on suede’s exceptional ability to convey exclusivity effortlessly, without being too ostentatious. The tones bring to mind the season’s main theme – The Swedish archipelago.
The suede garments come in earthy colours. With its matt finish, suede is reminiscent of the bright, earthy tones of Gotland, which has been a source of inspiration for the entire collection. The garments should feel like a second skin. Something casual, yet still indicating an awareness and a sense of luxury.
To guarantee quality, the material has been procured from small, local Italian producers. Take this spring’s shirt jacket Hannes, for example – a relaxed hybrid garment for a casual yet exclusive feel. Ready to be one of the beautiful ones?